Saturday, January 22, 2011

Citrus Heaven



One of the most wonderful things about returning to Vejer from a wintry UK is the wonderful sight of the orange trees in Los Remedios, laden with glistening bright naranjas. This time of the year, freshly squeezed orange juice is at its best. Mother Nature having her hand in our winter injection of Vit C no doubt!
Everyone in town knows someone with orange and lemon trees in the Campo (countryside), so I'm luckily always being offered bagfuls of these wonderful Andalucian winter fruits. However, I remain mesmerised by the thrill of picking my own. Scratching the skin of a newly picked lemon can push me into the realms of a dream world. I wonder if in a previous life I maybe made my fortune from lemons or perhaps I was the Goddess of Lemons (who was she???). There is definitely something about freshly picked lemons that makes my heart sing.

Preserved Lemons originate from Morocco and have been used in Moroccan and Middle Eastern cuisine for centuries. Preserved in salt and spring water for weeks before use, the salt introduces another flavour to the bitterness of the lemon, creating a salty lemony explosion in your mouth like nothing else in the world!

There appears to be no definitive recipe on how to preserve lemons but the method described below, works for me. You can Google and watch films on YouTube to give you more confidence for your first time.

Preserved lemons are a shockingly wonderful addition to loads of dishes. Here are some of the ways we use them at Annie B's Spanish Kitchen - wonderfuly mixed with carrots & carrot puree, diced & mixed with other goodies through Bulgar wheat or couscous, stuffed into a chicken before roasting (breast side down of course so that all the yumminess soaks into the breast during cooking), diced & sprinkled with parsley, tuna, onion, olive oil & Sherry vinegar then folded through hot potatoes.

Before use,they need to be rinsed, the flesh pulled away, discarded and just the skin used.

In the UK, you need to seek out unwaxed, preferably organic lemons. The skin should not be shiny, which indicates it has been waxed.

Here is how I preserve my lemons.

Sterilize a jar big enough to hold the lemons you wish to preserve. Wash and scrub the lemons. Cut into quarters but NOT all the way to the bottom. The lemon should open out like a flower. Pack rock or sea salt(at least a tablespoon) into the lemon by opening out each half making sure that all exposed flesh is in contact/covered with salt. Pack lemons one by one into the jar. Add another couple of tablespoons of salt, perhaps even a Cinnamon stick and a few bay leaves and cover with bottled water. I leave half an inch at the top of the jar to fill with olive oil.. Turn the jar upside down every couple of days until you can see that all the salt has dissolved. Leave for a month before use. I never keep mine in the fridge. Lemons were preserved in the days before fridges were available.

Enjoy!

Monday, January 3, 2011

Another glowing report - blush, blush. Thank you Margot!


Annie B's Spanish Kitchen: by Margot & Alice, mother & daughter from Auckland, New Zealand.November 2010

This is the most fun you will ever have in class. What a great decision it was to book a couple of days in Annie's Spanish Kitchen. From the first contact Annie was so helpful and informative - and patient with all my questions as I tried to work out how to get to Vejer from Seville by public transport! It is much easier to hire a car but it is possible to catch a bus at San Fernando which drops you in the village. We arrived in appalling weather, checked into the Hotel El Calif and were soon collected by Annie for the short walk up to her home. By then the rain had stopped and the evening was beautifully clear as we walked along the ancient cobbled streets of the village.

The 'Anniepov' (vodka/pomegranate) welcome cocktail soon obliterated any memory of our wet journey while we chatted to our fellow cooks and watched Annie finish the slow-roasted Spanish pork that was to be our dinner. It was melt-in-the-mouth delicious and accompanied by fabulous sherries and wines.

The next morning our cooking classes began at 10am with preparation of a Moroccan inspired lunch of marinated chicken, pomegranate couscous (incredible luscious pomegranates had just come into season) and our own designer vegetable stacks. The orange and almond cake complemented the chicken dish perfectly. We sat around the pool laughing, drinking fine sherries and wines and eating a sumptuous lunch - congratulating ourselves on the design of each vegetable stack. Annie teaches in her own home which is a delightful village house of many levels furnished with beautiful Spanish touches. The rooftop has glorious views all the way to the coast. In the evening we went bar-hopping in the old town with Annie guiding us in tastings of the finest Iberico hams, shellfish and sherries.

On the second day we visited the fish market in the neighbouring town. It was fascinating to see the varieties of fish, vegetables and fruit, many of which we had never seen before. We were intrigued to discover how many parts of a rooster can be used in cooking - and what's more there is a vacuum pack specifically designed for every part of that rooster's anatomy! Annie bought several varieties of fish and a large bag of fresh Anchovies.......specially for us to learn the finer points of filleting an anchovy. Easier than it sounds thank goodness - rip the head off, pull out the guts, gently open it out and the backbone lifts out miraculously to leave you with a (nearly) perfect flattened anchovy ready for marinating and eating. The flavour is nothing like the canned salted ones we are accustomed to. It is delicate and very more-ish. Lunch that day was whole fish baked in salt creating the most delicious moist fish. In the evening we returned for our final meal which was a paella cooked by Annie's lovely Spanish assistant with instructions from Annie as we went.

The two days whizzed by - we learned a lot of dishes and handy cooking hints (like how to deseed a pomegranate and how to make a veggie stack) but most of the time we were just having fun. Annie has the perfect touch as a hostess. She is warm, charming, generous, friendly and lots of fun as well as being an incredible cook and teacher. I cannot recommend her kitchen classes highly enough. We were sad to leave this lovely village and Annie's great company.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Andalucía as a Rising Foodie Destination


Earlier this week, my friend Jane Gregg, who runs www.epicurianways.com , a travel company offering food and wine routes in Spain, mentioned that she didn't have as much demand for Andalucía as she did for Barcelona, Cataluña and The Basque country. This was my response to her.

‘’People don’t seem to think of Andalucía as a foodie mecca. Andalucía is bursting with history as well as being an oasis of fabulous ingredients that don’t need to be fussed over – especially on Costa de la Luz. Ask any student who comes here. A simple pickled Boquerón, a succulent fish baked in salt with a glistening salsa Verde, spectacular Atun del Almadraba – especially as presented at El Campero in Barbate – it just can’t get any better than that. And then there’s the hint of the flavours of Morocco running through so many dishes here (possibly more so in my kitchen than on the streets!). Pomegranates, pears and plums just now. Carrots when cooked in their skins – wow.

Angel Leon, who has a restaurant called Apoinente in El Puerto de Santa Maria, received his first Michelin star recently. Have you read much about what he does with fish? Dani Garcia in Marbella got his second Michelin star. Have you seen Jon Clarke’s book ‘ the dining secrets of Andalucía´? There is nowhere in Spain I’d rather be to enjoy the fruits of the sea and the land – boom, boom!!

And then of course, the magical Sherry. And now more red wines are being made in the Arcos de la Frontera area as well as around Ronda. Right here in Vejer we even have a boutique vineyard called Etu. Just nurturing their 3rd vintage, they are producing some red wines that will make their mark before too long.

There’s always something delicious to discover, friends offering some new delicacy to share. Sometimes my friends and neighbours think that what they cook is just not worthy of sharing because they think it not special enough. More often than not their recipes haven’t changed for generations. I find that special. The root of the cuisine here has to be less is more. Scratching the skin of a freshly picked simple lemon can send one into the realms of competing in Masterchef! Andalucía is not yet on the gourmet map, but it will be. Trust me.’’

Saturday, November 27, 2010

All that´s Yummy in Andalucía

Great episode from the series by José Andrés called Made in Spain. This one is Tuna & Tapas. Featuring so many of the things that are wonderful about being here in the province of Cádiz - Tuna, The Almadraba, Tarifa, El Campero in Barbate, Manzanilla, Sanlúcar, Tortillitas de Camarones and soooooo much more. Classes here next May 2011 will be featuring tuna from The Almadraba, lunch at El Campero and more!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH_Lz1xRn-0&feature=player_embedded

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Ferran Adria praising Jamón, Sherry and that it HAS TO BE Andalucía

Oh My Gosh - I need Ferran as my PR man. He confirms in the 1st 30 seconds that the best food and wine match in the WHOLE of Spain is Jamón and Sherry but ONLY in Andalucía. Don´t even try this in Madrid. Forget the possibilities in Barcelona. Drop the idea in Valencia. The only fab and wonderful place for the yummiest food and wine experience in the WHOLE of Spain is in Andalucía - at Annie B´s Spanish Kitchen! OK - he hasn´t been here yet but I can tell he´s after an invite!

www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/504693

Monday, November 15, 2010

Tins and Jars at Annie B´s Spanish Kitchen


Ever since I first visited Spain, in the 1980´s, I´ve always regarded jarred or tinned white asparagus with disdain. Confused as to why so many people loved it. Unappreciative as to why a single spear would often be given pride of place on top of Ensaladas. Totally thrown as to why HUGE and expensive jars of the stuff are always on display at Christmas time alongside goodies such as Jamón and Turron.

I have a friend from Navarra whose opinion on food, wine and cooking I respect. When a tin of White Asparagus Spears was produced one evening recently, I was informed that Espárragos Blancos from Navarra was the best in the world. I suspected that something interesting was about to unfold. The tin was lovingly opened, the spears drained, a garlicky Salsa Verde whisked up and a magical platter of Navarran Esapárragos Blancos Extra, bathed in the glistening green salsa appeared in minutes. It was incredibly delicious

This week I have been looking at tins and jars of white asparagus through new eyes and realise that there are many Navarran pretenders around. BEWARE of jars and tins of White Asparagus grown and prepared in China – it will say this in the small print on the back.

3 cloves of garlic, peeled

120mls of mild olive oil

1 tbsp Sherry Vinegar

Handful of Parsley

Whiz in blender until garlic is pureed. Place drained spears on a platter and pour over green sauce.

Take a deep breath and be prepared to be impressed.